Last Saturday afternoon, when I landed at the Roatan airport and made my way down the rusty staircase leading from the front of the plane to the crude concrete runway below, I quickly understood that I had entered a new world. The humid air, the tropical trees and smells, the ocean and sky that extend as far as the eye can see...indeed, I had come quite a long way from California.
On the drive to Peggy's house that day, I caught my first glimpse of the social and economic stratification that I had only vaguely heard about before then: along the road to Sandy Bay, I saw several multi-million-dollar gated properties; but along the same road, the countryside was dotted with tin-roofed shacks and stray dogs. And as I got settled into my own apartment furnished with cable TV, a full kitchen, and a private bedroom w/ bath, I was told that many of the neighbors did not even have running water or an indoor toilet. While I am not a stranger to poverty in all its manifestations—my frequent trips to India have already shown me plenty—it is nevertheless disturbing to see it so closely, on such a grand scale.
Of course, there were other differences as well – but many of these would not become apparent until I had spent a bit more time here, until I had seen more of the island. There was surprisingly a “Bojangle's” in Coxen Hole, but other than that, there was no other evidence of the beloved staples of modern American life—no fast-food joints, and certainly no Starbucks. The closest equivalent to fast food I have seen is the 'balleada' – an island snack consisting of bean and sharp white cheese wrapped in a soft tortilla. While I had heard that this island was greatly shaped by tourism, a walk through Coxen Hole or La Colonia would certainly not give that impression to a newcomer, given the poor conditions of the roads, buildings, and homes. Rather, it is West End of the island that distinguishes itself as a tourist haven – expensive gourmet restaurants, resorts, and dive shops...even a Paradise Computers Internet Cafe and store...most islanders don't even have computers.
During my first week as a clinical intern at the Global Healing clinic at the Roatan Public Hospital in Coxen Hole, the term “hospital” took on a new meaning – far from the immaculate, air-conditioned facilities one gets accustomed to in the States, this hospital was simply one of the only places where islanders could come for medical help; most patients came out of desperation, not choice. The air conditioning often failed, as did the lights, and there was no running water inside the clinic. The patients lined up along the long corridor that also served as a waiting room, often for several hours, just for a chance to speak with one of the few available doctors on duty. And our clinic was one of the more popular ones in the hospital, as many islanders seemed to take comfort in the bright white “médicos americanos” sign on our door, as if an indication of superior training and knowledge, a small gift to Roatan from the 'land of plenty.'
But my clinical experiences have been greatly positive in many other ways. For one, here I have had greater exposure and access to patients and medical care than I ever would have dreamed of in the States – and all in a week! My primary duties included taking height, weight, and temperature measurements for each scheduled patient, and keeping a record of their symptoms and treatment procedures. I also updated growth charts and the clinic patient database, and verified crucial identification information from each patient as the basis for follow-up care if needed. In addition, I spoke more Spanish in the clinic than perhaps in all my years of Spanish in school...I hope that this month will improve my fluency and pronunciation. And I had the unparalleled opportunity to work side-by-side with highly trained doctors – usually pediatric residents in their last year of training – who gave me e me a glimpse into the world of possibilities that is open to an aspiring physician, including international medicine. Dr. Leila Sabet and Dr. Darren Fiore were in clinic until Wednesday, which also happened to be Ryanne's last day. Since Thursday, it has been just me and Dr. Charles Welcome in the clinic, and he has done his best to further answer my questions about my work.
Finally, let us get to life outside the clinic—because it most certainly exists! There are so many educational, volunteer, and recreational activities that I want to participate in before I leave the island. So far, I have been tutoring math and English at the Learning Center at a nearby bilingual school, and starting next week, I will be privately tutoring English after school for a boy named Moises. Another item on my agenda: arrange and jump-start a daycare health screening program between the Global Healing clinic and a local daycare in Coxen Hole...once the new doctors come to work on Monday, I will talk to them about this plan. Other than that, I have been snorkeling, swimming, enjoying breath-taking sunset views, and reading some of my favorite books. My first week has been a wonderful educational experience, and I hope that the remaining weeks will afford me the same kind of unique learning opportunities.